This depends on the hardness of your water and the soil in your clothing. Softened water requires quite a bit less detergent than hard water--yet the more soiled the clothes, the more detergent you need to clean them. See the instructions on the detergent package for specific guidelines. If soap suds remain at the end of the cycle, you are probably using too much detergent--see “How can I get rid of residual soap suds at the end of a cycle?”
All modern detergents work quite well. However, some have been tested by consumer magazines--which you can consult--and found to be superior to others. Detergents that produce low suds are best for front-loading washers.
If your washer doesn’t have a lint filter that you manually clean, the lint goes down the drain. This is usually safe for both city sewers and septic systems.
Absolutely. In fact, the higher initial cost of a front loader can be recovered in just a few years through water, sewer, drying time, and soap-usage savings--also through reduced wear-and-tear on clothes.
The warm water for your washer is simply a mixture of the hot and cold water available from your home. If the hot water entering the machine isn't very hot, the warm is actually cool. Also, in northern climates, during winter months, the cold water entering the unit may be significantly colder than in the summer, which causes the warm water to be cooler.
In some cases, the water inlet valve may be restricted, or there may be sediment on the screen, that blocks the input of the hot water. For more information, see the Troubleshooting Guide section of our website for washing machines.
The systems used for delicate cycles vary widely. Units with at least a two-speed motor--one speed for regular and another for delicate--are usually more gentle than units with only one speed.
During the wash cycle, the agitator in the center of a top-loading washer rotates back and forth rapidly. If the unit is too full, or if the agitator happens to catch a piece of clothing in an unfortunate way, it may tear certain clothes. When washing fragile things, put them into a net laundry bag (available in our accessories section), before you wash them.
Many synthetic clothes shed small fibers that ball up and cling to the clothes. Remove these "pills," if you like, with a fuzz-removing device that you can get from your local clothing materials supplier. Overloading your washer can make this condition worse.
For a top loader, a general rule of thumb is to lay clothes loosely inside the washer until they reach the top of the agitator. For a front loader, fill it until it's full, with minimal compression of the clothes.
Yes. Washing machines are complex and have many functional components. It's always best to stop an unbalanced load, rearrange it, and re-start the washer.
This is usually an indication that you're using too much detergent for the clothes you are washing. Try reducing the amount of detergent by half. Then, if the clothes aren't getting clean, increase the amount slightly for each load, until the clothes do get clean.
In the washer, the clothes often turn inside out during the agitation cycle. Turning the clothes inside out first may be easier on the clothing. It limits abrasion on the “good” side of the fabric, reducing “pilling” and extending the life of some fabrics such as corduroy. In addition, any embroidery, decals, and so on are better preserved. It should not affect the performance of the cleaning action to have the clothes inside out during wash.
